Tie rod and strut

[whatisthat]

So I can't install my coils because the tierod won't budge. My struts can't come off of the tie rod. Has anyone else have this problem? I need help getting my coils in.

[shooktd]

hit it with a hammer

[whatisthat]

We pb blasted it and smacked it with a mallet for like half an hour. I feel like anymore abuse would damage my tie rod.

[shooktd]

don't hit the actual tie rod, hit the spot it connects to. also theres a trick were you can jack the knuckle up to the point where the car almost moves, then release the jack. Sometimes that breaks them free.

[testify]

What kind of car is this?

I've never heard of a tie rod end needing to be removed to replace a strut.

Anyway, depending on the type of vehicle, the outer tie rods are probably dirt cheap. So it won't be a big deal to replace them. They are about $10-$20 a pair on an EF, EG, DC, etc.

If you are replacing them, you don't have to worry about damaging the boots on removal, so you can use a pickle fork to separate them from the knuckle.

If you are planning to reuse them:

Soak with penetrating oil, put the nut back on so you don't mushroom the threads, and then forcefully tap the nut, tap the knuckle, tap the nut, tap the knuckle, and you might get it loose. Although if it's really seized in there, as that is what it's designed to do, you are probably going to need to use a pickle fork.

[Jjevans]

Definitely need to know the chassis you're working with. but assuming it's an older Honda, chances are replacement would be a good idea anyways. pickle fork, ball joint separator or pickle fork attachement for an air hammer are all pretty inexpensive at harbor freight or rent at autozone.

[testify]

but assuming it's an older Honda, chances are replacement would be a good idea anyways.

x1000 on this.

Take it from someone who has broken a ball joint in a sharp turn at 50mph, it will really screw up your car and your day.

I'm just thankful that I learned that lesson in a controlled environment instead of on the street where I could have been hurt, or hurt someone else.

You can get new UCA's with BJ's, new Lower BJ's, and inner and outer tie rods for like $75 altogether on most older Honda's, there's no reason not to just do it.

[Jjevans]

x1000 on this.

Take it from someone who has broken a ball joint in a sharp turn at 50mph, it will really screw up your car and your day.

I'm just thankful that I learned that lesson in a controlled environment instead of on the street where I could have been hurt, or hurt someone else.

You can get new UCA's with BJ's, new Lower BJ's, and inner and outer tie rods for like $75 altogether on most older Honda's, there's no reason not to just do it.

Ill second that as well. FCPImport which is in Milford has great prices.

[shooktd]

x1000 on this.

Take it from someone who has broken a ball joint in a sharp turn at 50mph, it will really screw up your car and your day.

I'm just thankful that I learned that lesson in a controlled environment instead of on the street where I could have been hurt, or hurt someone else.

You can get new UCA's with BJ's, new Lower BJ's, and inner and outer tie rods for like $75 altogether on most older Honda's, there's no reason not to just do it.

Where are you getting these prices from? i just ordered lowers, inners and outers for $2xx ish from majestic lol.

[Jjevans]

Where are you getting these prices from? i just ordered lowers, inners and outers for $2xx ish from majestic lol.

I have Inners and outers for sale on here for cheap w/ lifetime warranty. obviously OEM is the most expensive route.

I put it in an earlier post, check FCPimport. great prices and service, lifetime warranty on everything.

[shooktd]

I have Inners and outers for sale on here for cheap w/ lifetime warranty. obviously OEM is the most expensive route.

I put it in an earlier post, check FCPimport. great prices and service, lifetime warranty on everything.

it was cheaper than moog even with my dealer discount at advance auto.

[testify]

Every part has three prices (excluding dealership parts which you always pay list price for)

1) Wholesale price

The whoelsale price is the price the parts store or vendor pays for the part

2) Sell price

The sell price is the price the parts store or vendor sells the parts at.

3) List price

List price is an imaginary number that a manufacturer assigns to parts so that installers can make additional money on the parts they install on customers cars. This is the price most end users pay if they do not install the parts themselves. Additionally, dealerships charge list price for Honda manufactured parts, and thats why you paid an astronomically high price for those parts.

Parts made by Honda are of high quality, but even Honda dealerships often pass them up in favor of aftermarket OEM to make a few extra dollars. And the reality is that Honda parts and aftermarket OEM are often made identically by the same manufacturer and simply rebranded.



For the tie rods, I like 'Safety Brand'. They are extremely high quality, and have a coating on them that prevents rust and corrosion. That's something you don't get with the overpriced Honda OE parts. Furthermore, they always have castle nuts and cotter pins instead of nyloc nuts, which I prefer for peace of mind.

For everything else, I like the budget brand 'ÜRO Parts'. Again, extremely high quality and you can't beat the price.

Here, have a look....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-1988-2000-BALL-JOINT-FRONT-LOWER-OUTER-TIE-ROD-ENDS-KIT-4PSC-/251506275765?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1992%7CModel%3ACivic&hash=item3a8ef135b5&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-93-94-95-HONDA-CIVIC-SUSPENSION-CONTROL-ARM-BALL-JOINT-TIE-RODS-KIT-SET-/290913593564?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1992%7CModel%3ACivic&hash=item43bbcd28dc&vxp=mtr