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  • Need Info: Wilwood 140-8695 kit

    Has anyone here done the Wilwood front brake upgrade kit (140-8695)?

    This is a kit that comes with the Dynalite caliper, and only an 11" two-piece rotor which means it'll fit in a 15" wheel (good thing).

    I'm just curious if anyone has done this kit and tracks or auto-x's their car because I want to know if they like it, and which pads they're using, etc. Also want to know if this kit will fit the 260mm spindle too? Wilwood says they're made for the 240 spindle, but I don't know if the mounting points for the stock caliper bracket are any different between the two.

    Anyone?

  • #2
    I have dynalite calipers on my miata and they stop very well (car only weighs about 2200 w/ driver). They can be creaky because the material is thin but they are very good breaks. I have ebc green pads in them and at autox there is no fade, but I am also using steel braided brake lines, slotted/crossdrilled rotors, and hawk hps rear pads. Are you looking for shorter stopping distance or longer endurance? Have you upgraded your stock pads/rotors yet? Gotten featherweight wheels? Steel braided brake lines? All of these things equal a faster stop ;P
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    • #3
      I got the same set up wild wood stock pads very good very happy with them to bad the rears cost even more then the front have them on my coupe
      13203 in the funken house#38

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      • #4
        Originally posted by SKUNK 2.2 COUPE View Post
        I got the same set up wild wood stock pads very good very happy with them to bad the rears cost even more then the front have them on my coupe
        Skunk, good to know. So you did the rears as well? Are you using the c.d/slotted rotors, or the blanks? When you say stock pads, are they the BP-10, 20, or 30's?

        Originally posted by astroboy View Post
        I have dynalite calipers on my miata and they stop very well (car only weighs about 2200 w/ driver). They can be creaky because the material is thin but they are very good breaks. I have ebc green pads in them and at autox there is no fade, but I am also using steel braided brake lines, slotted/crossdrilled rotors, and hawk hps rear pads. Are you looking for shorter stopping distance or longer endurance? Have you upgraded your stock pads/rotors yet? Gotten featherweight wheels? Steel braided brake lines? All of these things equal a faster stop ;P
        Astro, thanks for that reply. What clubs do you run? CART? FCSCC? I use to run with both when I had my 300Z, but haven't been to an event and actually competed in at least 5 years now. Hopefully I'll get the car on the road by the end of the summer, and get to at least one event before the year is out.

        As for application: The goal is to do both; Shorten up stopping distance, as well as longer endurance. I currently have Brembo c/d rotors with Axxis metal master pads, and BFG SS lines, but I'm still running the crap DOT-4 fluid that's (I know, I know) got to be a good 6 years old by now. (Don't worry, I'll flush the whole system out before it gets back on the road [err.. track].) I love this setup for street use and occasional auto-x, but that was on a bone-stock 98hp (crank) motor. Now I'm hoping to be somewhere around 150 whp, so I have no doubt I'll eat those up quickly.

        Not only that, but as soon as a cage goes in it (hopefully next summer), it'll see Limerock as frequently as my pocket can afford, so I could benefit from the added stopping power.

        As for wheels, I don't have the lightest wheels in the world, but they're certainly not boat-anchors either. The new wheels are a bit lighter (about 14 lbs each if I remember right), and with Kumho V.Racer V700-R's, I should hold pretty well, and the unsprung weight is kept at a manageable number.

        ....as for total weight, after the lite weight reduction I expect I'll be somewhere near 2300-2400 lbs.

        Are you still running a stock propo valve and master cyl? ...what fluids have you tried, and noticed the least fade with?
        Last edited by markd; 06-04-2009, 07:27 PM.

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        • #5
          We did solo2 but that was in hawaii so not much of a selection. As of rite now I have the stock proportioning valve and master cylinder seeing how there was not that large of a difference in area (the pistons on it are pretty small). I run regular dot 4 and have never had fade. And this car has been driven ridiculously hard (like 15-20 runs during a test and tune in Hawaii weather which is like 85-90 all the time with pavement temps in the 100's). Those Kumo's shouldn't have a problem with hauling down the speed (I used the same set for autox mounted on some stock miata wheels with a footprint of 205).
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          • #6
            yeah sounds good. I'm enlightened to hear that the regular dot-4 hasn't boiled over on you to the point of excessive fade. I'll definitely be staying with it for now just to see how well it holds up in light of that info (and it'll save me a bit of money on the prohibitively expensive race fluid).

            Yeah, as soon as I read Hawaii, I knew that'd be a good test because up here we're not likely to catch a 100° day all that often, so if they don't fail/fade for you down there, I should be fine. Oddly enough, those Miata wheels were ones I was seriously looking into for track wheels, and what's more is that they use the same tire sizes as my car. 205/50-15 = yum.

            Are you here in CT? Do you take your Miata to any auto-x or HPDE's in the area? On a side note, if you have any interest in used Kumho V700 or V710's, there's a guy locally that frequently replaces his tires, and sells of his used sets pretty cheap. (That's where these came from.)

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            • #7
              I am thinking you should be fine w/dot4. I moved out here a few months ago, haven't figured out the autox thing yet because I just bought and house and all associated things that go with it. Good to know about the supplier of sticky tires, may hit you up on that later. There is also a chemical that you can soak your tires in (we did it in hawaii all the time) that will soften them up again if he has old ones. Can't remember what it is though...also I don't know if the miata wheels will fit on a civic because some of them are hub centric. I will try to put mine on my ef when I get home.
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              • #8
                Very interested in knowing what that chemical is because I have a spare pair that are some years (5+) old, but they've been garage-kept, and it would be a shame to toss them just due to their age, especially since I can still see the circumference grooves, and some hints of tread blocks too.

                Here's the two auto-x clubs that run in the area. Both are great, and have some seriously good drivers. I personally haven't been to either in at least 5 years, but as previously mentioned, I'm dying to (and trying like hell to) get out there for at least one event before the end of the year.




                Would you run the EF or do you still have the Miata?

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                • #9
                  Still have the miata and would run it like hell. May try the ef once or twice...once I was convinced I had completely un-************ed it. Thanks for the info, I wil try to find out what the tire stuff is called.
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