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heres what u need to go k
complete engine swap.. motor, tranny (only from k20's), ecu (02-04 rsx or ep3 only), axles, shifter cables and shifter box (type s only), 02-04 k20 engine harness and charging engine harness, but if you use a non type s harness you will not have the reverse lockout for the 6 spd tranny
MOUNT KIT for your car (ef - eg/dc - ek) made by hasport, hybrid racing, avid
ECU- theres a couple of options here. reason is that the USDM ecu's have a non-bypassable immobilzer, but when u put hondata on the ecu it disables it. best option is hondata K-pro or AEM EMS, since they are fully user tunable. kpro costs about $900, the AEM is about $1200. then theres hondata k100 ($500), which is a fully tunable ecu just like kpro, except that it can only be modified by a hondata dealer or tuner, not the user. next is hondata reflash ($500), which is basically like gettin a chipped ecu. they reflash it to be compatible with your setup, and thats how it stays, its not fully programmable or tunable. last option is the JDM DC5 ITR ecu ($300-350). this can be used in stock form, all it takes is one wire to jump hte fuel pump and bypass hte jdm immobilizer. it works, but its not a great way to do it because its a stock ecu and is meant for the higher compression and bigger cam jdm k20a. you COULD use a USDM type s ecu if you got the whole immoblilzer system and ignition and key, but from what ive read its pretty much a nightmare to get it all to work.
SWAP HEADER.. theres ones that make power and ones that just let the car run, you get what u pay for at this point (hasport $350, DC $350, comptech tsx $450, R CREW $750, hytech $???, DTR/SSR $900, there might be a couple other of the expensive high end ones. if u wannt be cheap you could also use a stock tsx header with a custom downpipe. eg/dc/ek are all the same, EF is a different header.
SUBHARNESS- used to connect the rsx engine harness to your chassis (ef, eg/dc, ek). made by hasport, hybrid racing, R CREW. if you are patient you could also make your own.
FUEL SYSTEM- universal 3 port FPR like the aeromotive 1000. K series cars have an in-tank FPR so its not on the motor, thats why u need a custom one. you need custom fuel lines and fittings, you could but premade steel ones for like $250, or u could make your own for much less. steel braided lines are not necesary either, rubber fuel line is just fine.
CLUTCH LINE- you will need a custom clutch line to go from the clutch master cylinder to the slave. easiest way is to just buy a premade steel braided one for $50-75, you could also make your own braided one for less, or you could even use hardline and just bend it yourself if you wanted. this is not needed for EF's (or eventually DA's) since they are cable driven.
AXLES- couple options again. theres aftermarket axles made for the swap, which are about $350 for stage 1, $700 for stage 2, etc.. the stage 1 hasports have been known to break, and stage 2 is $700.. so the best option here is the OEM combo, which is taking type s axles and putting b series outers on them. this works perfectly in eg/dc. ek's will need to add a prelude shaft on one side. in EF's, base non type s and ep3 axles work pefectly. the base axles could be used in eg/dc also. other options include using jdm 98+ ITR suspension with the 36mm hubs, that way full type s axles plug right in. same thing if you buy the aftermarket 36mm hubs. use k20 intermediate shaft (k24 wont work)
INTAKE- AEM makes a custom one for k swaps, but IMO its a waste because of the high price and also it places the filter in the back of the bay near the header for all the hot air. much better to just make your own cold air intake out of some old b series intake tubes or whatever. www.karcepts.com also offers one.
EP3 IDLER PULLEY- used to replace the power steering pump. the power steering pump does not fit well under the hood in swaps.
B/D series TEMP SENSOR and FAN SWITCH- needed so ur fan works and temp gauge works
K24 specific- you need the crv passenger side mount bracket if you are using a k24 block. if u have a k24a1 crv block you should have it already, otherwise its about $40 at the dealer. also, u need to convert to a type s throtte body if the one u have is drive by wire (tsx)
MISC "NOT NECESSARY" PARTS:
Karcepts shifter mounting kit- a must if you want to retain a clean, stock look for your shifter. visit www.karcepts.com for other helpful peices, like a FPR mounting bracket, radiator bracket, overflow tank bracket, and more.
fuel rail- many get an aftermarket one, but stock type s rail works perfectly
fuel pump- not a bad idea to get a walbro, but stock will work fine on stock motors
hasport fan switch / temp sensor adaptor- allows easy mounting of the fan switch and temp sensor (to make the the gauge work). only $35 so id say its worth it
slim fan- the stock fan is bulky and takes alot of space, but it can be used. slim fan makes it much easier, and they can be had for about $60
rsx radiator- direct drop in for integras, and will fit nicely in eg's and most likely ek's. not sure about ef fitment. offers better cooling than a stock civic rad, allows u to use both upper and lower rsx hoses, and helps with hiding the motor
complete engine swap.. motor, tranny (only from k20's), ecu (02-04 rsx or ep3 only), axles, shifter cables and shifter box (type s only), 02-04 k20 engine harness and charging engine harness, but if you use a non type s harness you will not have the reverse lockout for the 6 spd tranny
MOUNT KIT for your car (ef - eg/dc - ek) made by hasport, hybrid racing, avid
ECU- theres a couple of options here. reason is that the USDM ecu's have a non-bypassable immobilzer, but when u put hondata on the ecu it disables it. best option is hondata K-pro or AEM EMS, since they are fully user tunable. kpro costs about $900, the AEM is about $1200. then theres hondata k100 ($500), which is a fully tunable ecu just like kpro, except that it can only be modified by a hondata dealer or tuner, not the user. next is hondata reflash ($500), which is basically like gettin a chipped ecu. they reflash it to be compatible with your setup, and thats how it stays, its not fully programmable or tunable. last option is the JDM DC5 ITR ecu ($300-350). this can be used in stock form, all it takes is one wire to jump hte fuel pump and bypass hte jdm immobilizer. it works, but its not a great way to do it because its a stock ecu and is meant for the higher compression and bigger cam jdm k20a. you COULD use a USDM type s ecu if you got the whole immoblilzer system and ignition and key, but from what ive read its pretty much a nightmare to get it all to work.
SWAP HEADER.. theres ones that make power and ones that just let the car run, you get what u pay for at this point (hasport $350, DC $350, comptech tsx $450, R CREW $750, hytech $???, DTR/SSR $900, there might be a couple other of the expensive high end ones. if u wannt be cheap you could also use a stock tsx header with a custom downpipe. eg/dc/ek are all the same, EF is a different header.
SUBHARNESS- used to connect the rsx engine harness to your chassis (ef, eg/dc, ek). made by hasport, hybrid racing, R CREW. if you are patient you could also make your own.
FUEL SYSTEM- universal 3 port FPR like the aeromotive 1000. K series cars have an in-tank FPR so its not on the motor, thats why u need a custom one. you need custom fuel lines and fittings, you could but premade steel ones for like $250, or u could make your own for much less. steel braided lines are not necesary either, rubber fuel line is just fine.
CLUTCH LINE- you will need a custom clutch line to go from the clutch master cylinder to the slave. easiest way is to just buy a premade steel braided one for $50-75, you could also make your own braided one for less, or you could even use hardline and just bend it yourself if you wanted. this is not needed for EF's (or eventually DA's) since they are cable driven.
AXLES- couple options again. theres aftermarket axles made for the swap, which are about $350 for stage 1, $700 for stage 2, etc.. the stage 1 hasports have been known to break, and stage 2 is $700.. so the best option here is the OEM combo, which is taking type s axles and putting b series outers on them. this works perfectly in eg/dc. ek's will need to add a prelude shaft on one side. in EF's, base non type s and ep3 axles work pefectly. the base axles could be used in eg/dc also. other options include using jdm 98+ ITR suspension with the 36mm hubs, that way full type s axles plug right in. same thing if you buy the aftermarket 36mm hubs. use k20 intermediate shaft (k24 wont work)
INTAKE- AEM makes a custom one for k swaps, but IMO its a waste because of the high price and also it places the filter in the back of the bay near the header for all the hot air. much better to just make your own cold air intake out of some old b series intake tubes or whatever. www.karcepts.com also offers one.
EP3 IDLER PULLEY- used to replace the power steering pump. the power steering pump does not fit well under the hood in swaps.
B/D series TEMP SENSOR and FAN SWITCH- needed so ur fan works and temp gauge works
K24 specific- you need the crv passenger side mount bracket if you are using a k24 block. if u have a k24a1 crv block you should have it already, otherwise its about $40 at the dealer. also, u need to convert to a type s throtte body if the one u have is drive by wire (tsx)
MISC "NOT NECESSARY" PARTS:
Karcepts shifter mounting kit- a must if you want to retain a clean, stock look for your shifter. visit www.karcepts.com for other helpful peices, like a FPR mounting bracket, radiator bracket, overflow tank bracket, and more.
fuel rail- many get an aftermarket one, but stock type s rail works perfectly
fuel pump- not a bad idea to get a walbro, but stock will work fine on stock motors
hasport fan switch / temp sensor adaptor- allows easy mounting of the fan switch and temp sensor (to make the the gauge work). only $35 so id say its worth it
slim fan- the stock fan is bulky and takes alot of space, but it can be used. slim fan makes it much easier, and they can be had for about $60
rsx radiator- direct drop in for integras, and will fit nicely in eg's and most likely ek's. not sure about ef fitment. offers better cooling than a stock civic rad, allows u to use both upper and lower rsx hoses, and helps with hiding the motor
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