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  • All motor h-series

    im going all motor on my h22 so im looking for some advice and opinions on what upgrades will put down some good whp....:confused:
    NHBP Dc5
    R.I.P Nick (nhswaps)
    Gone but Never forgotten


  • #2
    Mahle makes a good set of drop in pistons for that engine. intake manifold, tb, headers, exhaust, cams, springs, retainers and manual tensioner conversion. Your budget determines your direction of the build.
    (860) and beyond
    #DavesTuning 8608050968

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    • #3
      fuk that, h2b end of thread
      13203
      I DO REMOTE STARTS!

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      • #4
        its all about H2D. Get a fully built D series tranny, and wreck all....
        BOOST

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 4door89 View Post
          its all about H2D. Get a fully built D series tranny, and wreck all....
          word to bird
          Originally posted by LilPhil
          haha, Ban U for being ugly

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          • #6
            h2b the way to go
            checos autoworks
            *Goldstar*

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            • #7
              If you want to use after market (forged) pistions, you HAVE TO resleeve the block. H series motors have fiber reinforced material sleeves. If you drop in forged pistons your sleeves are toast.. Even those pistions saying there FRM compatable, are garbage. Search it on honda-tech youll see what it does to your sleeves.. baddd newwsss..

              You could resleeve it, or...

              Use a F-series block (F22Bx, F23Ax, F22Ax, F22Bx, Etc.). they have iron sleeves, and you can drop forged pistions in them. But to swap the h22 head on the block you need to have the two oil drain holes on the head tapped and have a recessed allen plug put in them. Parts wise, you need h22 head studs, h22 lower timing gear, h22 water pump pulley, upgrade your rod bolts, and the h22's oil squirters in the block are reccomended. Another reccomendation is to use the h22 rotating assembly.

              The f22/f23's have the same stroke but are diffrent in bore and the crank mains differ in some blocks, some are 50mm and others are 55mm.

              Besides the head swap,

              Id reccomend OEM type-s pistons/rods, brian crower stage 2/3 valve train, S2 intake mani (or equivalent), a good head porting (you also need to get your valve guides to be set down further for stage 2+ cams), a good dyno tune or street tune w/ wide band is nessecary, and finally a gasket and IM port match. And simple bolt ons are also reccomended (good equal lenghth header, CAI, lt. wht. flywheel, etc.)

              What alot of people do is elminate the banace shaft so you can squeeze in a hp or two, but its reccomended you keep it in especially if your revving over 9 grand with a built motor. With out it you can kiss your rotating assembly good-bye!

              Eric
              Honda's SUCK!

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              • #8
                h23 crank ,rods jdm h22 pistons in h22 block
                skunk2 stage 1s
                good header..
                tuned and you got a beast for a reasonable price.. alpinestar03 knows whats he talking about..just seen what you wrote i plan on doing the same setup..
                Last edited by SPECIAL K; 02-22-2008, 07:42 PM.
                r.i.p nick haines

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                • #9
                  or just buy my built h24
                  Photobucket
                  RIP NHSwaps13203

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                  • #10
                    ALPIN not true. i have stock sleeves, with the new mahley gold series pistons, and been boosting the crap out of it for 2yrs and no problems at all...
                    JUAN'S_SLOW_EK

                    !!!!!ThE GoOd DiE YoUnG!!!!
                    R.I.P NHSWAPS 13203

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