been having some problems with my z6

[Jasonx056]

ok when i start my car up and drive it runs fine
but when my car gets warmed up it runs funny
like when my car idles at 1k and ill tap on the gas itll like sputter or sometimes my car will just shut off. from 1-2k when i tap the gas it sputters and its really annoying.
i just replaced the fuel filter cuz i thought that could be the problem. it was half the problem but it still happens.
anyone know what can be wrong?

[Jasonx056]

bump i need to find out whats wrong asap

[astroboy]

Pull the cel. If it is acting shitty it is probably throwing a cel. Could be a multitude of things...coolant temp sensor is the first thing I think of though. Then IACV and map. Start checking sensors with an ohm meter rather than replace if the ecu isn't giving a cel.

[1994delsolLS]

to clarify what he is saying when the car is at a steady idle around 1k and you literally just tap the gas it seems as if its choking itself out

[astroboy]

But the problem occurs when it heats up so that for me says bad sensor.

[Jasonx056]

But the problem occurs when it heats up so that for me says bad sensor.

yea it only happens when the car is all warmed up

[ct tibby]

prolly the map could be an injector but idk it could be alot of things with that car lol

[Jasonx056]

prolly the map could be an injector but idk it could be alot of things with that car lol

haha this is true.
but hopefully i can get this solved tomorrow

[ct tibby]

unplug the map sensor see if it runs better i know that car ran mint even with it unplugged lol

[Jasonx056]

Pull the cel. If it is acting shitty it is probably throwing a cel. Could be a multitude of things...coolant temp sensor is the first thing I think of though. Then IACV and map. Start checking sensors with an ohm meter rather than replace if the ecu isn't giving a cel.

its not giving me a cel
that doesnt mean i need a new ecu right?

[lsvtecrex]

sounds kinda like the map sensor is fucked up

[Jasonx056]

i still dont know what it is. now it seems to misfire in the higher rpms. i hate when people hack cars all up

[astroboy]

Are you grounding out the proper pin to get the ecu to show the codes? Also the po may have pulled out the cel light like the dipshit I bought my hatch did. The misfiring could be map or temp sensor.

Copied this shit from h-t:


Warm the car up to normal operating temperature, set the brake and leave it running. Set a meter to 20v and wedge the black probe in the battery negative terminal. Pierce the sensor signal wire (red/grn) with the red probe. The voltage reading should correspond to the amount of vacuum being generated inside the intake manifold. On MT versions of your motor, somewhere between .4 and .7 volts would be a good reading at normal idle. Higher voltage at standard idle speed usually means a vacuum leak. Next, shut off the motor and turn the key to on. Pierce the sensor's power wire (yel/red). There should be about 5v. Remove the probes and set the meter to resistance. Pierce the sensor's ground wire (grn/wht) with the red probe and wedge the black probe in the battery negative. There should be no resistance. Any resistance is a problem with the ground circuit but miniscule resistances can often be ignored. Remember to turn off the meter, take your key back and you're done testing the MAP sens
For the resistance test, remember to multiply the reading by the number of ohms. Set to 100 ohms, a reading of .5 is 50 ohms. Of course, if it's set to 1 ohm then .5 is just .5. It is common for a ground to have a few tenths of an ohm resistance. It still means a less than perfect connection somewhere but it is in the "shouldn't cause any problems" range. It would probably get worse over time, however, and if it is from a loose connection, heat and vibration can make it worse temporarily. To find the resistance, you leave one probe in and move the other probe closer to its counterpart in steps along the circuit they are testing. If you leave black probe in the battery terminal, you take the red out of the sensor ground wire and follow the wire to its next connector. Pierce the ground wire on the other side of the connector. If the resistance is still there, then you haven't reached the cause yet. If the resistance is lower, the difference in the resistance values is being caused between where the red probe is now and where you tested the circuit at the sensor. When you find this difference in resistance, probe each side of the connector you just got to in order to see if the connector itself is the cause, which it often is. You probably get the idea. Testing circuits is usually a long and arduous process- set up a good playlist before you begin.or

[kbrown!]

i still dont know what it is. now it seems to misfire in the higher rpms. i hate when people hack cars all up

now im gunna be a dick.
there was nothing hacked on my car when you got it. it needed brakes and a new battery fuse. you got the car from me about 5 months ago something breaks and its cuz me and ls/vtec hacked it? no its because it a 91 civic you just learned how to drive standard and you dont know anything aout hondas. not to mention you probably thought it was fast and beat on it daily. so before you try and call out work hacked learn what your doing first. then you can talk.

[LS/Vtec]

i still dont know what it is. now it seems to misfire in the higher rpms. i hate when people hack cars all up

yo now that you fucked the car up if you wanna sell it call me 860-383-3658. I'll come up fix it and drive it home like it was never broken