block guard

[spooncb7]

does the block guard position really matter, like if its at the top of the block or if its down an inch, i heard of overheating issues depending on where it is

[cts mr.niceguy]

makes heat spots no matter were it is ill never use one again

[LS/Vtec]

Never used one myself. But everyone I know who has said bad things and said never again will they use one. But take the guy aboves me advice because he knows from personal experience.

[hatch_eh2]

my shits bored 20 over and i have a blockguard havent ran it yet still building my ls/v, do u guys recommend removing it and if so what should i do to make sure my sleeves dont get fucked

[Greeneyezz203]

Just make sure that the machine shop thats doing it are expert on it and you should not have any problem

[cts mr.niceguy]

20 over boosting? or n/a?

[hatch_eh2]

N/A for now

[cts mr.niceguy]

no need for a guard all motor man better off without it i know i looks cool lol and seems like a good idea theres no need for it.

[spooncb7]

no need for a guard all motor man better off without it i know i looks cool lol and seems like a good idea theres no need for it.

ok good to know, a machine shop put the thing in how the hell do i get it out lol

[panch]

just make sure the one you buy is the least obstructive, water flows through there, so you don't want to block anything.

[spooncb7]

just make sure the one you buy is the least obstructive, water flows through there, so you don't want to block anything.

mines never overheated or had hot spots.....but i might remove it any ideas how with out going to a machine shop

[LILRED_TURBO]

only block guard known to work is g.e there cut out lets colant flow properly if ur planning on going turbo keep it is a extra ssecurity. and removing it haha think again it sucks i done it in the past and it berks up the block's surface which sucks. another thing the block guard has to be 1/8 below the top of the deck for proper colant flow not 1inch down! going further down can cause ur piston to get off balance and create a strees zone regardless u'l get a slight hot spot but is better off further on the top. and if ur machine shop installed it correct they should have welded 4 corners of the block guard to the block or aleast put "red" lock tight on all the meeting surfaces. iv used lots of this on numerous motors never any problems,,,,, i never had a stock sleeve crack or fail and iv pushed them very far a while back complete stock bottom end b18 block 25psi on a 5th gear pull thats major load it burnt the piston but block and rods were great i did this alot to see when she'l finally give held 3 months. no worrys on the horror stories ppl tell you just dont make the same mistake they did and buy a ebay junk get GOLDEN EAGLE. gl

[spooncb7]

only block guard known to work is g.e there cut out lets colant flow properly if ur planning on going turbo keep it is a extra ssecurity. and removing it haha think again it sucks i done it in the past and it berks up the block's surface which sucks. another thing the block guard has to be 1/8 below the top of the deck for proper colant flow not 1inch down! going further down can cause ur piston to get off balance and create a strees zone regardless u'l get a slight hot spot but is better off further on the top. and if ur machine shop installed it correct they should have welded 4 corners of the block guard to the block or aleast put "red" lock tight on all the meeting surfaces. iv used lots of this on numerous motors never any problems,,,,, i never had a stock sleeve crack or fail and iv pushed them very far a while back complete stock bottom end b18 block 25psi on a 5th gear pull thats major load it burnt the piston but block and rods were great i did this alot to see when she'l finally give held 3 months. no worrys on the horror stories ppl tell you just dont make the same mistake they did and buy a ebay junk get GOLDEN EAGLE. gl

mine isnt golden eagle, any suggestios so my heat doesnt spike? drilling holes maybe lol?

[LILRED_TURBO]

if is close to the top of the sleeve and is not welded remove it. take a flat head and go around a bit at a time so it slides up. dont berk the deck if so resurface it if is to far down call it a day and leave it alone just keep a good eye on your temp get any air bubbles out of your colant lines slap a new thermastat........ and wish for the best what brand u buy? golden eagle has double cut outs and 1/8inch holes which flows colant good.

[panch]

i don't get it.. haven't you starter smashing that shit yet?? if i was trying to remove a bolt i wound be making a threat about it, i would be getting my impact gun, wd40 and all source of shit. lol
you are telling me there ain't a single spot where you can fit something to take it out, and you been here 4 days waiting for an answer.. lol damn dude thats crazy.

ight listen, i'll put your out of misery. the block guard is aluminum right, go to a welding shop and weld 2 little hooks on each end to take to take it out, they going to charge you like 10-15 bucks, and don't call your boy with the wire fed welder, that shit ain't going to work you need a TIG welder with A/C wave.