damnnn where are u located?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
sub killin battery
Collapse
X
-
there are 2 things i can think of either the power wire is a constant and the amp remote is a constant and not hooked up to the ignition like previously stated or your electrical (ie... battery or alt) may be too small but please dont get a capacitor they discharge way to quickly compared to adding a second battery or upgrading your battry it will only hurt your system in the long run
Comment
-
Originally posted by anthonyb5s4 View Postthe wiring is probably messed up and the headunit is causing the amp to stay on non-stop killing the battery, this happened to me in a 1996 tahoe, i ran a remote wire direct from the battery and installed a switch and it solved my problem
if your amps are staying on, thats an accessory issue, your unit is wired wrong
if your subs are making your lights flicker every time they hit, your harming your alternator therefore not properly cycling your battery. are you running a lot of electronics, by a lot i mean, all speakers on amp, or a huge amp on 2 subs, if you are, your car is lacking amperage. you need a high out put alternator 140-150 amp alternator can run you 200$ not bad.
capacitors are just cushions for discharge, a capacitor won't do shit if your alternator is getting crushed.
extra battery is for extreme systems, they way he (this guy on this thread i didn't look at his name) said to wire it is absolutely wrong, you need a 1 way solenoid to avoid making your car higher than 12v (14v while charged), all an extra battery would do is add weight and add one more battery not being properly charged in your vehicle.
for now, lower the gains on your sub, and other amps, and save up for the alternator.
Comment
-
Originally posted by MoneyPit View Postwhaaaaaaat, the remote is a constant pulse of 4.3-2.9 volts and you not only put it on the battery but you put it on a switch. WHAT. if your gonna disable power to anything disable power to the amps themselves, put them on a 30$ circuit breaker and put the breaker somewhere easily accessible.
if your amps are staying on, thats an accessory issue, your unit is wired wrong
if your subs are making your lights flicker every time they hit, your harming your alternator therefore not properly cycling your battery. are you running a lot of electronics, by a lot i mean, all speakers on amp, or a huge amp on 2 subs, if you are, your car is lacking amperage. you need a high out put alternator 140-150 amp alternator can run you 200$ not bad.
capacitors are just cushions for discharge, a capacitor won't do shit if your alternator is getting crushed.
extra battery is for extreme systems, they way he (this guy on this thread i didn't look at his name) said to wire it is absolutely wrong, you need a 1 way solenoid to avoid making your car higher than 12v (14v while charged), all an extra battery would do is add weight and add one more battery not being properly charged in your vehicle.
for now, lower the gains on your sub, and other amps, and save up for the alternator.
Comment
-
Originally posted by 93DAteggybeast View Postiight crzyivic ill hit u up.....nd no i only run 8 gauge wiring and how much is 130 amp alternator i aint got alotta money
Comment
-
Originally posted by 93DAteggybeast View Posti dont wanna buy a whole new wiring kit man big wate of money and i allready got a new headunit brosif
2007 and 2010 model solo basic 12" L7's (Sub amp mounted on top until i get kick panel made)
0/2 G Ground and Power to cap with 8g power to voice, and 4g to sub.
10g wire to subs and 12g wire to speakers/ all about resistance.
subs are wired to 1ohm
Comment
Comment